The rise of medium sizes.
The need to coin a term that determined the models, and
the general population, of medium size
was born through a great controversy starring one of the
main international lingerie firms, Victoria's Secret, when a young Barbara
Palvin happened to be considered an angel of the brand, yes, plus size, since
its incredible measurements 87-58-89, with 1.75 m in height and 55 kg in
weight, were out of the beauty standard until then set by the American company.
Criticism did not take long to flood the networks and
magazines. How could a person with these measurements be considered a plus-size
model?
But this was not the beginning, nor would it be the end
of a movement that seeks the inclusion of all types of bodies, not only in the
world of fashion, but in real life, where most women have a size between 38 and
42, the great forgotten of the industry.
Need to expand the sizing spectrum
Although it was not until the current 21st century when
the fashion industry began to include a
broader spectrum of sizes , not only in the catalogs of
large international firms, but also on the catwalks, the need to do so dates
back to decades ago.
Who does not remember the considered international sex
symbol Marilyn Monroe?
Well, his body, with measurements at 19 years 91-60-86, 1.67
m tall and 53.5 kg in weight, was considered fat for the fashion sector,
although I am sure that the director The agency that discriminated against her
for this reason was quick to regret it.
The 90s are also key in this standardization of
unattainable sizes, when the young top models of the moment began to triumph,
including Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista or
Naomi Campbell, among others.
At that time when to be a model it was enough to have an
incredible image, the standard was based on size 0 (American size), with
impossible and unhealthy bodies, where not only diets were the protagonists,
but in more than on one occasion drugs intervened, as a representation of the
grunge aesthetic of the moment.
Curvy models, the prelude to the total acceptance of
all types of bodies
The impossible aesthetics of the 90s passed the new
millennium and during the first decade of the 2000s we could still see the
catwalks and the covers of the great fashion magazines flooded with bodies of
what was already considered a standard size.
But it did not take long for the need to expand the range
of sizes, leading to the inclusion of bodies considered non-normative, with the
rise of plus-size models, those women who had a size beyond 42.
The industry, which at that time thought that this type
of inclusion was enough, was not realizing the eternal forgotten, women with an
average size between 38 and 42, who, curiously, represent the highest
percentage of bodies .
The need to implement a representative image of this group
was the result of a combination of situations:
Rise of a request, on the part of the group of average
sizes, through social networks, where the disappearance of these canons is
demanded through movements such as body positive ,
or the vindication of the diversity of bodies.
In the same way, social networks have left latent the
requests of an audience that is still the main objective of the
industry. And it is that until a few years ago the communication of the
sector was unilateral and in a single direction: the firms presented their
proposals in fashion shows and magazines without waiting for the users'
response.
The emergence of movements instigated by medium- sized women, such as
the “ MidSize Collective ” , organized by the
British blogger and instagramer Anushka Moore.
Increase in visible faces of the sector with intermediate
sizes, which, far from being established within the size 0 regulations, but
also outside the plus size group ,
were looking for their place in the industry, such as the aforementioned
Barbara Palvin or another of the great representatives of the revolution in between , Jill Kortleve.
The new current paradigm that seeks for the fashion
industry to become a more sustainable and ethical
sector , derived from the need of the new generations to
be able to choose between brands that advocate for diversity and that have
clear established, committed values , not only with the environment, but also
with society.
And all this translates into the current situation in the
sector, where the boom in medium sizes is
undoubtedly one of the main actions that is being carried out.
Although there is still a long way to go, since the
optimal point will be reached when there is no need to define a model and her
body based on her size, but all are considered models and the range of sizes
has been established in all and each of the clothing brands that appear, or are
already established, on the market.